And now for the big one… but first, I need correct an oversight. I have not yet mentioned which religion these Angkor temples are in observance of. As you are likely aware, Cambodia today is a primarily Buddhist country and all modern Wats are flanked by orange-robed monks and studded with Buddha statues. But in the golden years of Khmer rule, the kings vacillated between Hinduism and Buddhism and the majority of the kings at Angkor worshipped Shiva & Vishnu, being Hindus that traced their religious and ascetic taste to India. Therefore, the Angkor kings, especially the early ones, built Hindu temples carved with Hindu characters, etc. Other kings, such as Jayavarman VII, were actually Buddhist and that particular chap certainly made up for lost time by embarking upon the massive 30-year building program of the Buddhist Angkor Thom. Anyway, even while kings were worshipping Hindu gods, Buddhism was making its way around the countryside and upon occasion, a few statues to Buddha were added and a Hindu temple was converted to a Buddhist temple. This is actually the story of Angkor Wat – it started as a State Hindu Temple built by a king by the name of Suryavarman II to be both temple and the 12th century Khmer Capital.

Our Siem Reap friend and expert driver both suggested that the magnificent Angkor Wat be viewed last… and they were absolutely right. My appetite had been whetted by our first night’s walk across the grand moat’s bridge but I was careful to not peak at the spires beyond until that last afternoon. I didn’t want to spoil the wonder – although not much could, actually. We walked across the lake causeway, through a massive gate and onto an even more massive causeway ending in the famous, humungous 3-peaked building.

Angkor Wat is considered to be the world’s largest religious monument, “a completely realized microcosm of the Hindu universe, culminating in the five peaks of Mount Meru” (thank you Ancient Angkor by Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques – that $11 book from Murt paid off). The temple is constructed of three levels of pyramidic towers and cruciform clusters while the outside columned gallery shelters massive stretches of bas-relief carvings – sometimes worn shiny by years of wonder-filled hand touches. There are now ropes to prevent such thoughtlessness. The bas-relief carvings mostly tell Hindu-based stories but naturally included is a 94 meter military procession featuring King Suryavarman II (the temple builder king) and his army. We first walked the perimeter, absorbing as best we could, the carvings and their stories. Outside it rained but we were quite dry viewing the carvings. Admittedly, occasionally, I’d deviate to the outside in order to snap a picture of some orange-robed monks that were as uncooperative with my artist impulses as they were picturesque. We walked the galleries until we came back to the center and then we walked up a wooden set of stairs (overlaying the stone ones for safety) to the next level. Thankfully by that point the rain had retreated and we interestedly examined the next level that surrounds the top level and is studded with a great number of Apsara dancers and other marvelous carvings. My friend was content to stay on that second level but there was a part of me that wanted to see the top. Unfortunately, I am afraid of heights and became more so after examining the extremely shallow, steep rock steps to the top. So I dithered. Finally, I was struck with by the thought that I was in Cambodia because I was no longer letting fear rule me (this is different than lacking common sense, truly) – and that if I wanted to go to the top and I thought I could do it safely, I should go to the top. So, after repeating to myself “the will to do, the soul to dare,” I tucked my camera into my bag, tightened my sandals and carefully climbed, rather hobbit-like, to the third level of Angkor Wat. Straightening myself at the top I was greeted with handshakes by several frail, old, Khmer ladies that clearly understood that I had just done a brave thing for myself by climbing to the top tier of their beloved monument. They couldn’t understand a word I said nor could I understand a word they said… but it nonetheless this was a heart-warming moment for me. I then explored the top, admired the view, remembered to snap a single picture, was struck by an amusing thought and mindful of my waiting companion, went to find the stairway with a railing to work my way back down.

The way down was slow and terrifying – but I was aided by an Asian lady my age who had climbed the Great Wall of China and the Pyramids in Egypt and had apparently developed a good method. (Oh, God, when I journey to those places I’ve got to do this again???). The lady was so sweet: she let me go first and told me to take my time. At the bottom, my friend told me that someone had told her that it was not as rare as it should be that people have bloody falls down those stairs – even with the railings - but on the other hand, she had watched a few old ladies nimbly go down those steps – no railings necessary. Talk about humbling! But I was brave and I was safe… and I am very glad that I went up although my legs trembled for a good half an hour afterwards.

An amusing aside: my friend and I had been feeling a bit sympathetic aloud for the young monks that we glimpsed around Angkor as the teen years do not seem like the optimal time in one’s life to take a vow of chastity. Yet while I was on the top tier of Angkor, I noticed a distinct pattern of shininess solely on the uncovered upper anatomy of many female Apsara dancers. That shininess has been created over a vast number of years of handling… and there is a monastery of young monks right next door to the Wat. Suddenly all become clear… and my friend and I spent a certain amount of time giggling over this thought. There are approximately 2000 Apsara dancers at Angkor Wat and only one has teeth. My friend especially felt the need to find this one dancer – and with good-quality help, we eventually did. As we departed from the Grand temple, the sky was clear and the hot sun had come out. The perfect conclusion to three days of temple visits.

Our good-bye to Theara was quick and sad. He couldn’t even share a drink or meal with us because he had English class to go to so we paid him a lot more than we had been told to pay him and said a fond farewell. We actually glimpsed him the next day… that final wave sticks in my mind. I haven’t detailed it here but our time in Cambodia and our temple visits would not have been as fun nor rich an experience without him. Full stop.

That night, we ate lunch at 4 and later couldn’t eat another bite when we walked about town with our Siem Reap friend. Eventually he got sick of us party poopers and went on his way (smile) but we had plans to see him the next day and made an early night of it – fully from the previous night’s 20 illnesses, I spent the evening illuminated by florescent bulbs, in the company of adorable geckoes, at the only tolerable computer in the guesthouse.

Angkor Wat was wondrous. --Laura